| Introduction | The Beginning | Skis | Bindings | Ski Boots | Ski Poles | Tip to Tale Chapter VIClothing | |
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^ Maria Bogner modeling her new stretch pants, c. 1955. Photo: The Book of American Skiing. |
BOGNER Skiwear In Munich, Germany in early 1950, Maria Bogner and her husband Willy had become increasingly disappointed with the look and feel of the available selection of ski wear. Tired of waiting for the ski clothing manufacturers to come up with something better, they decided to create their own designs. In 1951, they were shown a new fabric that combined wool with a new Swiss nylon called Helanca. Helanca was unique because it could be pulled in any direction and still return to its original shape. Once fashioned to fit the body, it was sleek, sexy and, because of its wool content, warm. Although the new material was difficult to tailor, Maria and Willy continued to test and experiment. By 1952 they had engineered a design that worked. That very ski season Maria and Willy introduced their new stretch pants to the world. The pants became an instant success. They were so popular the Bogners could barely keep up with the demand. In 1955, they began offering their new stretch-pant designs in bright, non-traditional colors and patterns, all selling for the unheard of price of forty dollars and up. The designs were so amazing, skiers snatched them up several pairs at a time without even considering the price tag. Bogner Stretch Pants were so popular, merchants had a difficult time keeping them stocked. As SKI Magazine reported, “Racers, who once wrapped thongs around their pants to prevent them from flapping, switched to stretchies. Marilyn Monroe, Ingrid Bergman, and the Shah of Iran wore them. Henry Ford ordered fifteen pairs!” Almost overnight skiing had been transformed into an elegantly fashionable and highly visible sport. |
^ Wild 1970s fashions featured a variety of shapes and patterns. Aspen Historical Society photo |
The Age of Aquarius Following the popularity of stretch pants, ski clothing proceeded to get tighter and sleeker until some skiers were wearing stretch fabric from head to toe. Despite its overwhelming popularity, however, a number of deliberately non-stretch fashions and fads also began appearing on the slopes. Rebelling against the status quo, some young skiers in the sixties began sporting wool shirts and Levis in an attempt to establish their originality. Ironically, these skiers were unknowingly imitating a look that was first made popular by the Sierra Snowshoe racers in the late 1800s. Those who supported rebellion yet preferred to stay warm and dry wore big, puffy down parkas and vests made popular by Sport Obermeyer in Aspen, Colorado. The bigger and baggier the jacket, the better. These Parkas and vests were much warmer than earlier models thanks to Klaus Obermeyer’s early innovative use of down as a ski clothing insulator. |
^ Klaus Obermeyer in his quilted insulated parka, c. 1960. Photo courtesy of Sport Obermeyer |
Klaus Obermeyer In 1947, when wool was still the material of choice for most winter outerwear, Klaus Obermeyer arrived in Aspen, Colorado to work as a ski instructor. Tired of watching his students freeze in the high altitude air, Klaus decided to design an insulated jacket, a concept that was almost unheard of before the days of Gore-Tex and Thinsulate. Klaus invented the first insulated parka by filling a quilted jacket with the down feathers from an old comforter. According to Klaus, getting it right was a bit of a process. The first coats "looked like the Michelin man" because all the stuffing fell to the bottom. Klaus eventually worked out the kinks and his down-filled parkas became a long awaited success. Klaus went on to pioneer other inventions in ski wear including the first ski gloves shaped like a hand, the first nylon wind shirts and the first quilted parka. The company he created, Sport Obermeyer, is currently the largest skiwear-only manufacturer in the United States. |
^ Nylon and fur. Aspen Historical Society photo |
The Age of Synthetics During the late sixties and early seventies the prevailing fashion ideal was simply to be seen. The more attention an outfit could attract on the slopes, the better. During this era of "anything goes," skiers wore in-the-boot-pants, long belted "tow coats" and hip-length, turtle neck sweaters designed to highlight their "skier tan." Each item featured an explosion of polyester materials, bright colors, heavy textures and wild patterns. Stretch material continued to be fashionable as did the down jacket. From 1975-1986, three distinct looks characterized ski fashion. The Racer Look, typified by sleek nylon suits with "sausage padding and stretch action stripes," the Coordinated Look in which everything (right down to underwear) matched, and the High-Tech Look complete with Gore-Tex Parka, waterproof/breathable pants, gaiters, Gore-Tex/Thinsulate gloves and Vuarnet sunglasses. Of these three, the High-Tech Look survived, spawning a whole new generation of ski apparel. |
^ Andy Mill demonstrates his skills wearing waterproof and breathable Core-tex pants and parka. Aspen Historical Society photo |
GORE-TEX Gore-Tex is probably the most identifiable product created for the synthetic age of ski wear. The fabric garnered attention from the ski industry when it was first used as a glove insert in 1982. Today, the uses of Gore-Tex have been expanded to include all types of skiwear from head to toe. W.L. Gore and Associates, the company that manufactures Gore-Tex, was founded in 1958 by Bill Gore, a former DuPont research engineer who worked on the original research team for PTFE (Teflon). When Gore left Dupont and started his own company, he began to develop a wide range of uses for PTFE including the weatherproofing of fabrics. He and his son, Robert, believed that if they could only "stretch" the molecules in Teflon, they would have a revolutionary new kind of material. They began by heating rods of plastic until it became pliable. Then they tried to stretch it. Unfortunately it would only stretch so far before breaking. They experimented with numerous techniques with little success. Finally, in 1969, a frustrated Robert yanked violently at the Teflon, rather than trying to stretch it carefully, and to his great surprise, the material did not break. Robert’s breakthrough discovery of expanded PTFE eventually led to the development of Gore’s most famous product, Gore-Tex. Gore-Tex was patented in May 1970. It’s best known use is as a razor thin membrane that is laminated to outdoor wear to make it waterproof, yet breathable. This wonder product reshaped the company’s future as well as the future of skiing. Today waterproof, breathable fabrics have become the industry standard. |
^ 1990s Obermeyer fashion. Photo courtesy of Sport Obermeyer
^ Mac Girardelli of Luxembourg captures first place in Aspen's 1985 World Cup Giant Slalom event. He wears a newly introduced, nylon racing suit and bib for less wind resistance in a sport where every millisecond counts. Aspen Historical Society photo Introduction |
Present Day Ski Wear Today’s skiwear is some of the most specialized clothing around. It is designed to look great and engineered to perform. The prevailing fashion philosophy is layering. This includes a wind and waterproof jacket and pants on top, a thermal underwear layer next to the skin, and an insulating layer or two in between. Uninsulated shells, designed to be worn over an insulating layer, are the current favorites in skiwear. These pants and jackets come in various styles, weights and colors and are almost always weatherproofed. Many style come with a mesh lining designed to enhance breathability. Synthetic materials such as nylon and polyester are still favored shell construction materials. The most commonly used fabrics include Antron, Supplex, Stunner, Tactel and Taslan. Some of the more technical lines use rugged synthetics such as Berguntal and Caprolan. Stiffer materials such as Cordura are used in high-abrasion areas. Thanks to the breakthroughs made by the Gore-Tex laboratories, most skiwear fabrics are now treated with a coating or laminate to make them waterproof as well as breathable. This is true for both technical and fashionable skiwear. These coatings and laminates feature microscopic pores that allow moisture to escape but are too small to let snow and rain in. In addition to Gore-Tex, common waterproof-breathable fabrics include Activent, Dry-Loft, Durepel, Entrant, Exceltech, MemBrain, Sympatex, Triple Point Ceramic, Ultrex and WindBrake. All of these shells require an insulating layer for warmth. Currently, the most common type of insulators are those made of quick drying, durable synthetic fleecea fabric originally introduced under the brand name Polartec. Fleece insulators range from high-loft to low-loft and provide warmth without bulk. Popular fleece garments include pullovers, full-zip jackets and vests. Fleece has also been combined with stretch material for long johns. Down, the very first insulation material used in skiwear, also remains a popular insulation material for ski clothing. It is soft, lightweight, and durable, and maintains a high loft, which creates a puffiness that endures as one of ski fashions timeless looks. Though other skiwear brands do exist, the most common manufacturers include: Alpine Design • Maser • Belfe • Mistaya • Bogner • Mobius • Boulder Gear • Mountain Hardwear • CB Sports • Nevica • Colmar • Nils • Columbia • Nordica • Couloir • Patagonia • Descente • Roffe • Fera • Rubicon • Fila • Schoffel • Gerry • Serac • Hard Corps • Sierra Designs • Head • Silvy • Helly-Hansen • Skea • High Sierra • Slalom • Kaelin • Solstice • Killy • Sportalm • Linda Lundstrom • Sport Obermeyer • Lowe Alpine • Spyder • Marker • Sun Ice • Marmot • Tenth Mountain • The North Face END
^ The D&RG RR Ski Train to Aspen, c. 1949. Photo courtesy of Colorado State Historical Society This manuscript is available from the AHS in black and white bound form, and with additional photographs and footnotes, for $15.00 plus postage and handling. To order call 970-925-3721 or e-mail archives@aspenhistory.org |